How Niacinamide Can Help Your Skin: What It Is, What It Does and Why It Treats Almost Every Skin Concern

What is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is the active form of niacin (also known as vitamin B3)

As a water-soluble vitamin, it won't dissolve in oil, so you'll typically find it in water-based treatments. It's also one of the more stable active ingredients in skincare, with a pH around neutral therefore it is non-acidic and non-irritating.

How Does Niacinamide work?

In our bodies, niacinamide is formed when we eat foods high in niacin (like liver or mushrooms). The body converts the niacin into active niacinamide.

This boost cellular metabolism, meaning they give our skin cells the energy to carry out their functions. In fact, they are involved in more than 40 biochemical processes, including such important jobs as DNA repair and cell turnover. 

Since niacinamide readily penetrates into the skin, we don't have to rely on our diets or a dietary supplement. We can also benefit from using it topically.

 Niacinamide Skin Benefits

1. Fights Free radicals
Niacinamide has been found to protect from free radicals and prevent oxidative stress it actually increases the antioxidant capacity of skin after topical application.

2. Fades Pigmentation

Niacinamide has proved to be an excellent treatment for pigmentation, age spots, and melasma. For melasma,  4% Niacinamide is comparable to 4% hydroquinone. But it has fewer side effects and a much better safety profile. 

3. Reduces Wrinkles and Fine Lines

Niacinamide significantly improves fine lines and wrinkles. A 4% concentration of Niacinamide Serum will significantly reduce wrinkles in the eye area.

Some researchers have suggested that niacinamide does this by increasing collagen production in the dermis. But it also helps normalize collagen, keeping it supple and flexible!  It inhibits protein glycation, effectively reducing deposition of cross-linked collagen and elastin molecules in the skin. Cross-linked collagen and elastin molecules are stiff and rigid, resulting in altered viscoelastic properties of the skin.

4. Treats Acne

With its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, Niacinamide is a great treatment to try if you have acne.

For moderate acne, it has been found that 4% Niacinamide gives comparable results to one percent clindamycin, a topical antibiotic. And it doesn't have the risk of bacterial resistance.

It has also been concluded that the same amount, 4% Niacinamide, is effective and safe in alleviating symptoms of mild to moderate acne. 

5. Regulates Oil Production 

Maybe you don't have acne but struggle with oily skin. Well, Niacinamide can help with that, too.

This is different from most topical treatments for oily skin, which just try to absorb the excess sebum. Niacinamide can actually slow down how much is released, with changes evident after two to four weeks.

6. Shrinks Pores and Smooths Texture

You've probably heard that you can't shrink your pores. Actually, you can with Niacinamide!

It has been found that niacinamide and salicylic acid significantly reduce pore size and bumpy skin texture.

This happens because of niacinamide's ability to reduce sebum production. Pores always look larger when they are trapped with sebum and dead skin. So with less oil, they're not going to be as stretched out. And with smaller pores, the skin texture looks softer and smoother.

7. Reduces RednessIf you're prone to redness, Niacinamide is one of the best ingredients you can apply.

The theory is that niacinamide improves the function of the skin barrier, which means less irritation and less reddening.

8. Strengthens the Skin Barrier

If your skin seems very intolerant—even stinging when you apply your skincare—then it's possible your skin barrier has become compromised. I often hear from people who are experiencing this after using topicals that were too harsh, such as prescription retinoids.

To restore barrier function, It is suggested to try Niacinamide. It reduces transepidermal water loss and increases the moisture content of the stratum corneum, resulting in a thicker and stronger barrier. It would be a suitable component in cosmetic products for use in disorders of epidermal barrier function.

9. Reduces Dryness

Another way you can use niacinamide is to treat dry skin.

Compared two percent niacinamide with white petrolatum (a.k.a. mineral oil), Niacinamide significantly decreases water loss—but petrolatum does not. Niacinamide was also proven more effective at increasing hydration in the skin's outermost layer.

It has been found that a twice-daily application of Niacinamide lowered inflammation, decreased water loss and increased the thickness of the stratum corneum.

10. Reduces Sallowness

Ever noticed how some people's skin seems to take on a sallow, yellow cast as they get older?

It happens due to oxidative stress, which increases as we age which niacinamide, as an antioxidant, can inhibit.

It has been found that 5% Niacinamide, applied twice daily, significantly reduced skin sallowness (yellowing). 

11. Protects from UV Damage

Lastly, consider Niacinamide as an adjunct to your sunscreen if you are spending a lot of time in the sun. Research has shown that it has some photoprotective properties.

Niacinamide aids in DNA repair after UV damage. It has been found that Niacinamide protects against immunosuppression caused by UVA and UVB, making it a promising agent for skin cancer prevention. 

Niacinamide Side Effects

As if niacinamide didn't have enough going for it, here's one more thing to know...

It has virtually no side effects! , it can be used at high doses topically (at least up to five percent) and is generally well tolerated.

So it's one of the safest active ingredients, and would be a great alternative to retinoids or acids if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Most of the clinical studies got results using concentrations between two and five percent. However, there are products now that go as high as 10 to 12 percent. (Chat with your doctor about the latter if you have a medical condition, as that may be too big a dose.)